"Customer service was great, and the price was in-line with other places, and fast service. We had a whole replacement of the outside and inside. I would have liked to see a better install for the furnace and new thermostat - the new thermostat should have gone where the old one was, and even tho the new furnace was a tight fit, they didn't offer to come back and repair the case molding, or give me a discount on the damage done, and I believe they should have put a disconnect box on the outside of the home, to make it easier for any future repairs needed. Other than that, am very happy with the cooling and heating!"
Although HVAC is executed in individual buildings or other enclosed spaces (like NORAD's underground headquarters), the equipment involved is in some cases an extension of a larger district heating (DH) or district cooling (DC) network, or a combined DHC network. In such cases, the operating and maintenance aspects are simplified and metering becomes necessary to bill for the energy that is consumed, and in some cases energy that is returned to the larger system. For example, at a given time one building may be utilizing chilled water for air conditioning and the warm water it returns may be used in another building for heating, or for the overall heating-portion of the DHC network (likely with energy added to boost the temperature).
Beyond changing the air filter on a regular basis, one of the best ways to ensure your home's HVAC system is operating at peak efficiency is to have a qualified professional HVAC contractor tune up the system on a biannual basis. Energy Star recommends scheduling your system tune-up around the beginning of daylight savings time in the fall and its end in the spring. It's an easy way to remember to have your system serviced before the peak heating and cooling seasons. A standard tune-up is likely to cost you between $70 and $100, but it's money well spent.
While a lot of people know the consequences of heating system problems during the winter, the season comes with its own set of unique problems that require a call to the plumber. The most received calls we receive during these months are for frozen pipes, broken water lines and failing water heaters. We’ve been through it all. And with 24/7/365 Emergency Plumbing Service from Service Experts, you don’t have to worry about any of it. When you need a plumber, we are here for you. What’s even better is that, just like all of our other services and products, any plumbing repair or work performed by Service Experts is covered by a 100% Satisfaction Guarantee*.
Second, there are the diagnostics involved as well as the return trip to effect the actual repair. What about the hidden costs such as having the part picked up at the supplier, was this considered? As for the parts manager at our shop having wasted time tracking the part down, it often happens that we have to contact several suppliers to find parts especially during the recent cold spell when so many suppliers were out of stock of even the most common service items due to demand being so high.
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Ductwork pinging or popping. If you hear a pinging or popping sound coming from metal ductwork, this may be caused by thermal expansion or by air blowing past a loose flap of metal. Track along the duct runs, listening for the sound. If you find it, make a small dent in the sheet metal to provide a more rigid surface that’s less likely to move as it heats and cools.
Compare replacement and repair costs: A new boiler or furnace is a substantial investment, but repair costs can also become costly as well. Not to mention, there’s always the possibility of the same issue occurring again or the need for more work in the future. You may want to replace your heating system if the repairs exceed half of the replacement costs.
If you can’t make up your mind about whether you should repair or replace your current unit and it’s over the age of 10, buying a new unit might very well be a better investment. AC units will no doubt need repairs every once in a while. However, if your system continuously requires repairs, these can eventually cost more than installing a new unit, making investing in a new unit the wiser choice.
The use of furnaces, space heaters, and boilers as a method of indoor heating could result in incomplete combustion and the emission of carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides, formaldehyde, volatile organic compounds, and other combustion byproducts. Incomplete combustion occurs when there is insufficient oxygen; the inputs are fuels containing various contaminants and the outputs are harmful byproducts, most dangerously carbon monoxide, which is a tasteless and odorless gas with serious adverse health effects.
The belt should slip right into place. If it seems to be too tight or difficult to set in place, it may be necessary to adjust the motor mount to provide more slack. Then you can re-tighten the tension once the belt is in place. Check the manufacturer’s specifications for proper tension—in most cases, the belt should deflect about an inch when you press down on it.
Fall is here and winter right around the corner which means soon you will be using your furnace day in and day out. With that said, you cannot expect your heating system to perform at peak levels and provide you with all the warmth and comfort you need if you do not take time out to schedule routine maintenance or an immediate furnace repair should you discover a problem with your system exists.
Some systems include an "economizer mode", which is sometimes called a "free-cooling mode". When economizing, the control system will open (fully or partially) the outside air damper and close (fully or partially) the return air damper. This will cause fresh, outside air to be supplied to the system. When the outside air is cooler than the demanded cool air, this will allow the demand to be met without using the mechanical supply of cooling (typically chilled water or a direct expansion "DX" unit), thus saving energy. The control system can compare the temperature of the outside air vs. return air, or it can compare the enthalpy of the air, as is frequently done in climates where humidity is more of an issue. In both cases, the outside air must be less energetic than the return air for the system to enter the economizer mode.
If you believe that the ac not working or you’re getting little or no cold air, check these three things first. Make sure all the registers in the house are wide open. Then be sure the furnace filter is clean. Then go outside and clean off the condenser coils (Photo 2). If several registers were closed or the filter was clogged, the reduced airflow could have caused the evaporator coil to ice up and stop cooling your home. If you’ve changed the filter and opened all the registers and you’re still not getting airflow at the registers, deice the A-coil. Move the thermostat mode switch from “Cooling” to “Off” and move the fan switch from “Auto” to “On.” Let the blower run for at least 30 minutes or until there’s good airflow at the registers. Then turn the AC back on to test it. If it works for the next 12 hours, you’ve solved the problem.