Our licensed HVAC Dallas Air Conditioning technicians are experts in air conditioning, heating & cooling technology and the latest innovations in green technology, including the installation of Energy Star certified products and the use of Ozone friendly refrigerants. Residential customers depend on Berkeys for timely, quality, and affordable air conditioning repair, maintenance, and installation solutions in Dallas. Read our Air Conditioning Reviews.
Service Experts Heating and Air Conditioning was founded with the understanding of offering customers with the most excellent heating and cooling practices in the industry. Since it started, Service Experts in Longmont has been faithful to community, providing the first class HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning) products and services in the area. If you are interested in more details about your local HVAC leaders, simply dial us at 303-647-5749 or schedule an appointment with us online.
I have a recurring problem of having to have freon added to my A/C system. I have even replaced both units inside and outside but seem to have the same problem. I believe that it must be in the lines between the outside and inside. Is there anything that can be put into the lines to seal any leaks if this is the problem? If not is it advised that the lines be replaced?
You should also have air ducts cleaned after recent water contamination or water damage to prevent mold; after renovations or remodeling to ensure debris and dust didn’t settle in the vents and ducts; if you are having problems with allergies or asthma; or when you are moving into a newly purchased home, especially if the previous owners smoked or had pets. The National Air Duct Cleaners Association (NADCA) recommends getting your air ducts cleaned every three to five years, or every two to three years in regions where homeowners use their air conditioning and heater for many months of the year, while the EPA suggests homeowners have duct cleaning done as needed.
Circulating refrigerant vapor enters the compressor, where its pressure and temperature are increased. The hot, compressed refrigerant vapor is now at a temperature and pressure at which it can be condensed and is routed through a condenser. Here it is cooled by air flowing across the condenser coils and condensed into a liquid. Thus, the circulating refrigerant removes heat from the system and the heat is carried away by the air. The removal of this heat can be greatly augmented by pouring water over the condenser coils, making it much cooler when it hits the expansion valve.
One problem occurred on Monday. When we called at 2:30 in the afternoon to check on status, we were told that "the tech is on the phone with the parts supplier now". It seems more likely that they had forgotten about us and our call woke them up. But even if true, why the heck did they wait until 2:30 to order the part? Maybe if they had ordered it in the morning they could have had it the same day. So I'm taking off one star for that.
We live in a recently completed townhouse that was built with double-wall construction. That construction method was touted by the builder as what would keep sound from penetrating between the units. But we can hear the next door neighbors' TV and stereo, and sometimes voices and even snoring, through the wall. While sometimes it's the volume, mostly it's the bass sounds coming through the wall. They say they don't hear us, but we keep our bass turned down. They crank up the bass, and they are not going to change that. They also are not going to do anything construction-wise to help from their side. What is the best way for us to try to block the low frequency/bass sounds from penetrating the existing wall into our side?
I awoke to a smoky smell from my heater and called HVAC service Heating & Air . I called HVAC and I was given an appointment that afternoon. Their technician arrived promptly and was totally knowledgeable and courteous. He had the new motor and starter on his truck and after a total replacement I now have my morning heat back!! I would use them over n over and they were very competitive in their pricing.
Replacing a capacitor is easy. Just take a photo of the wires before disconnecting anything (you may need a reference later on). Then discharge the stored energy in the old capacitor (Photo 4). Use needle-nose pliers to pluck one wire at a time from the old capacitor and snap it onto the corresponding tab of the new capacitor. The female crimp connectors should snap tightly onto the capacitor tabs. Wiggle each connector to see if it’s tight. If it’s not, remove the connector and bend the rounded edges of it so it makes a tighter fit on the tab. When you’ve swapped all the wires, secure the new capacitor (Photo 5).
Some service providers may recommend repairs and maintenance tasks that are not needed. A savvy consumer who has researched how an HVAC system works and is familiar with most common maintenance tasks will quickly know the difference between necessary tasks and add-on services that drain the wallet. If a heating or cooling problem occurs, appliance service manuals typically contain troubleshooting tips and other information that may be helpful in identifying or even resolving the problem without calling a repairman. Online HVAC guides may also be helpful to a consumer who wishes to become more familiar with how an HVAC system works and potential signs of disrepair.
Also, have an energy-efficiency professional come to your home and perform an energy assessment. This assessment could be either conducting a walk-through of your home with a clipboard or performing a thorough audit, pressurizing your home with a blower-door test to detect energy leaks. You may qualify for state discounts or rebates to have insulation installed in your home. Some utility companies also subsidize the cost of these energy efficiency assessments.
Designed to improve manufacturing process control in a printing plant, Carrier's invention controlled not only temperature but also humidity. Carrier used his knowledge of the heating of objects with steam and reversed the process. Instead of sending air through hot coils, he sent it through cold coils (filled with cold water). The air was cooled, and thereby the amount of moisture in the air could be controlled, which in turn made the humidity in the room controllable. The controlled temperature and humidity helped maintain consistent paper dimensions and ink alignment. Later, Carrier's technology was applied to increase productivity in the workplace, and The Carrier Air Conditioning Company of America was formed to meet rising demand. Over time, air conditioning came to be used to improve comfort in homes and automobiles as well. Residential sales expanded dramatically in the 1950s.
So HVAC sent Tony Diaz to my house. I was at work so he was subjected to the most excruciatingly exacting woman on the planet (my wife). Tony impressed her with his friendliness, professionalism and the obvious jouneyman-level knowledge of his craft. He found literally --burnt-out-- parts in our system and replaced them. It cost us a bit but I know enough about the parts to see there was no gouging on the parts and a fair rate for the labor. It wasn't cheap but it was fair and worth every dime.
Dichlorodifluoromethane (R-12) was the most common blend used in automobiles in the U.S. until 1994, when most designs changed to R-134A due to the ozone-depleting potential of R-12. R-11 and R-12 are no longer manufactured in the U.S. for this type of application, so the only source for air-conditioning repair purposes is the cleaned and purified gas recovered from other air conditioner systems. Several non-ozone-depleting refrigerants have been developed as alternatives, including R-410A. It was first commercially used by Carrier Corp. under the brand name Puron.
If you believe that the ac not working or you’re getting little or no cold air, check these three things first. Make sure all the registers in the house are wide open. Then be sure the furnace filter is clean. Then go outside and clean off the condenser coils (Photo 2). If several registers were closed or the filter was clogged, the reduced airflow could have caused the evaporator coil to ice up and stop cooling your home. If you’ve changed the filter and opened all the registers and you’re still not getting airflow at the registers, deice the A-coil. Move the thermostat mode switch from “Cooling” to “Off” and move the fan switch from “Auto” to “On.” Let the blower run for at least 30 minutes or until there’s good airflow at the registers. Then turn the AC back on to test it. If it works for the next 12 hours, you’ve solved the problem.