Second, there are the diagnostics involved as well as the return trip to effect the actual repair. What about the hidden costs such as having the part picked up at the supplier, was this considered? As for the parts manager at our shop having wasted time tracking the part down, it often happens that we have to contact several suppliers to find parts especially during the recent cold spell when so many suppliers were out of stock of even the most common service items due to demand being so high.
Once a diagnosis is made to your air-conditioning and/or heating system, the unit can be repaired, in most situations, with stock HVAC parts off the truck. Sometimes the HVAC part has to be ordered because it is a specialty part that only the HVAC manufacturer of your equipment can provide. If the part can be picked up locally then you can expect to pay for travel time to and from the HVAC parts dealer. It is practically impossible to carry every single HVAC part for every single HVAC breakdown that occurs.
The belt should slip right into place. If it seems to be too tight or difficult to set in place, it may be necessary to adjust the motor mount to provide more slack. Then you can re-tighten the tension once the belt is in place. Check the manufacturer’s specifications for proper tension—in most cases, the belt should deflect about an inch when you press down on it.
A contactor is a $25 mechanical relay that uses low-voltage power from the thermostat to switch 220-volt high-amperage current to the compressor and condenser fan. AC contactors can wear out and are at the top of the list of common air conditioning service failures. Even if your contactor is working, it pays to replace it every five years or so. Unscrew the old contactor before removing the wires. Then move the wires to the new unit (photo 6).
Modern air conditioning systems are not designed to draw air into the room from the outside, they only recirculate the increasingly cool air on the inside. Because this inside air always has some amount of moisture suspended in it, the cooling portion of the process always causes ambient warm water vapor to condense on the cooling coils and to drip from them down onto a catch tray at the bottom of the unit from which it must then be routed outside, usually through a drain hole. As this moisture has no dissolved minerals in it, it will not cause mineral buildup on the coils. This will happen even if the ambient humidity level is low. If ice begins to form on the evaporative fins, it will reduce circulation efficiency and cause the development of more ice, etc. A clean and strong circulatory fan can help prevent this, as will raising the target cool temperature of the unit's thermostat to a point that the compressor is allowed to turn off occasionally. A failing thermistor may also cause this problem. Refrigerators without a defrost cycle may have this same issue. Dust can also cause the fins to begin blocking air flow with the same undesirable result: ice.
Waited a week for technician who showed up for less than 15 minutes and told me that my air filters were dirty and I needed to experiment with thermostats to be comfortable. Thermostat shows temp at 75 when set on 71. Did what he instructed and still had problems when I realized unit was short cycling. When I called technician he told me I would have to place a new request for service. He gave me the office number and hung up on me. By the time I called office he had called in and said he refused to come back out. The operator would not give me business owners name and could not tell me why technician refused to return although they did say they would refund the fee for service call. Telephone rep yelled at me.
In addition to the information below, see these two articles for the general care and maintenance of your air conditioner: Preparing Your Air Conditioner for Summer and How to Replace Furnace & AC Filters. Most noteworthy, you should replace the filters at least twice a year, before the heating and cooling seasons. For information on furnace problems, please see Furnace Not Working.
Shortly thereafter, the first private home to have air conditioning was built in Minneapolis in 1914, owned by Charles Gates. Realizing that air conditioning would one day be a standard feature of private homes, particularly in regions with warmer climate, David St. Pierre DuBose (1898-1994) designed a network of ductwork and vents for his home Meadowmont, all disguised behind intricate and attractive Georgian-style open moldings.[when?] This building is believed to be one of the first private homes in the United States equipped for central air conditioning.
6) Check your ductwork and seal open spaces. Make sure all your doors and windows are properly sealed to help keep your home cool. Perform a visual inspection of your ductwork occasionally to be sure it is sealed correctly. If ductwork is not properly sealed, cool air will escape before getting into your home. The less cool air that escapes your home, the less your unit will have to work.
The contactor (relay) and start/run capacitor(s) (see illustration below) fail most often and are inexpensive. So it’s a safe bet to buy and install those parts right away, especially if your air conditioning service unit is older than five years. The condenser fan motor can also fail, but it runs about $150 — hold off buying that unless you’re sure that’s the culprit.